KULEN MOUNTAIN WATERFALL, SIEM REAP CAMBODIA

Getting to Phnom Kulen, Cambodia is a bit of an adventure in itself. Best reached from Siem Reap, Cambodia, it is about an hour to an hour and a half away. While not necessarily off-roading, there was about ten miles of dirt road, recently grated, that went from two lanes to a single lane pretty rapidly. In the rainy reason, however, parts of the road would be impassable to a vehicle without a high axle and four-wheel drive.

It is beautiful. It is in the mountains, and like so many places in Asia there is mysteriousness to the mountains. In Southeast Asia, they are where people who don't cultivate wet rice dwell, this being a major civilization divide through insular and mainland Southeast Asia alike. Mountains are not the paddy; they are wild, undomesticated foreign. This means that unlike most other places, they have not been bared of their forests and still are wild even if one sees paths penetrating them or gathers taking what they are allowed from the controlled forests, like fallen limbs and plant resins.

Phnom Kulen is where the Angkorian era "officially" began, with Jayavarman II initiated the cult of the king, a linga cult, in what is dated as 804 CE and declaring his independence from Java of whom the Khmer had Photobucketbeen a vassalage state (whether this is actually "Java" or "Lava" (a Lao kingdom) is debated, as well as the legend that he was earlier held as a ransom of the kingdom in Java. An inscription from the Sdok Kak Thom temple recounts that on the top of the Kulen Hills, Jayavarman instructed a Brahman priest named Hiranhadama to conduct a religious ritual known as the cult of the devajara which placed him as a chakravartin, universal monarch. The cult established him as the supreme ruler of the land, and therefore he succeeded in unifying the country. But Hindu civilization had existed already for centuries in the region; the fact that Jayavarman was the second monarch to carry that name was an indication that there had been a powerful king of an earlier epoch.

This is also near the river head of the Siem Reap River. In the bedrock of the river are carved hundreds of linga images. There are also some minor ruins. It was not long after the declaration of independence that Jayavarman moved his capitol, not yet to Angkor but to what is known today as the Rolous Group, among the oldest temples with the Angkor area.

Phnom Kulen is also a national park, and it houses a few very impressive waterfalls. On the weekends, it is very popular with Cambodians. However, if you'd like the place to yourself for at least a little while, try arriving by 9:00AM on a weekday. It is about 55 KM from Siem Reap, and the trip takes anywhere from an hour to ninety minutes. By 11:00AM on our last visit a few Cambodian holiday-makers showed up, and by noon foreign tourists began to pour in also. Also, be sure to view the carving of Vishnu in the river bedrock above the first falls, with Lakshmi as his feel and Brahma seated on a lotus growing from his navel.

Most people spend their time at the two waterfalls and exploring the ruins of a small temple nearby as outside of these wonders there is little to see. There are several Khmer eateries 
(as well as a few souvenir stands) that serve typical Khmer dishes. And the flocks of chicken running around the area are also available for your plate.

           The ruins, while not particularly impressive in terms of structures are in terms of age-they are among the oldest Khmer ruins in the Siem Reap area, and no real restoration work has happened. Seeing the rubble makes one appreciate what a difficult job just re-visioning the temple would be. After having a lunch (or without), one can go for a swim at the bottom or the very impressive Kulen waterfall. Stay on the trail. While not known to be a mined area, parts of Kulen are undergoing de-mining. As elsewhere in Cambodia, stay on well-trod trails.

After the waterfalls, you can visit a very active temple, Preah Ang Thom that has a 16 meter long reclining Buddha carved on the top of a huge bolder-maybe itself 20 meters tall. The carving dates to the 16th century. This is the largest reclining Buddha in the country. On the way, you can also stop and quickly view the "1000 Lingas" also carved in the river above the waterfalls.

This article is copyrighted by Jarrod Brown.

KBAL SPEAN WATERFALL

   Tucked away off the beaten track, some 50 km from Siem Reap, is an unusual sight. Kbal Spean. The name literally means “Bridge Head”. Here you will find the “River of the 1,000 lingas”. Don’t confuse this one with another river in the Kulen Mountains by the same name. These are not the same place.

Kbal Spean is set 2km from the road. You drive up a dirt track and park up. The trail starts at the back of the car park. One annoying feature of the area is you need an Angkor pass to visit – but that’s just an annoyance (especially if you’ve trekked out without one!)

The trail is well defined. There’s no chance of getting lost. Every 100m, there’s a board announcing how much further you have to go. It starts at 1,500m. So off you trek. It’s not a hard walk, but reasonable shoes are recommended. 

    We passed an elderly lady; possibly in her 80s walking along.

She was looking forward to getting there. At the steepest sections there are wooden steps. But it’s not the path that gets your attention, it’s the scenery. It’s beautiful out in the jungle. The time passes really quickly. You stop to take a picture; another vista opens up, another stop. There’s a huge perched rock, shaped like a mushroom, there’s an interesting insect, and butterfly or bird, there’s a tree growing in an unusual shape. Yes, the walk passes quickly.

   When you finally get there, the first waterfall is interesting. It’s not too high, but all around are carvings of Hindu deities. Vishnu, Lakshmi, Shiva, Uma mounted on the bull, they are all there. The carvings were started in the reign of King Suryavarman I and ended with the reign of King Udayadityavarman II; these two kings ruled between the 11th and 12th centuries. But the detailed description is boring. If you want to read the detailed descriptions, check Wikipedia, or one of the hosts of online guides. By now you know this is a website about the experience, the feeling. Walking along the riverbed, you are treading a 1,000 year old path.

   The river flow over 1000 lingas. These Hindu features we have seen before in many of the earlier temples. They represent the male sexual organ. Although much worn now, they are set out in a perfect grid pattern. The concept was it purified and blessed the water which flowed over it, on its way to the main temples at Angkor and out into Tonle Sap Lake.

If you start by looking upstream for a little – maybe less than 100m, you will find many of the carvings. Return to the bridge itself and in the floor is a hole. You can drop through the hole and your friend can take a photo of you, perched on the side of the bridge. It’s all good in the eyes of the tourists and their guides. Keep going downstream and there are masses of lingam. I asked my guide if anyone had ever counted them. He replied that he’d counted them twice personally. With a huge grin he announced once he counted 1,001 and once 1,002! Somehow I don’t believe him.

   

Keep walking downstream. The oldest lingas themselves may date from the 9th century. Follow them and the river dives off a cliff. A rather spectacular waterfall announces the end of the carvings and time to return down the path. You can tarry and take your time. Such pristine countryside with quite this amount of history is rare to find. Enjoy!

Source: www.siemreappost.com