A sudden burst of airline rushed through me as I set foot in Siem
Reap. I have heard ungodly stories of Cambodia and the ruthlessness with which
the Khmer Rouge ruled the country. Even though they had recently been ousted
from power, the Khmer Rouge left the population in utter devastation and the
infrastructure in ruin. Knowing this, it's difficult to say what makes Siem
Reap such a special place. Perhaps it's the primal energy contained in a place
that recently escaped persecution. Or maybe even that the land on which this
city rests is holy! Whatever the reason, Siem Reap would become an epic prelude
to one of the most incredible places on this planet...the Ancient City of
Angkor!
The weather was muggy and airs dusty as many of the roads are unpaved.
Navigating our two-wheeler out of town towards Angkor was a heart-pounding
endeavor as traffic is very erratic with little organization! Upon entering the
complex, we came upon a fork. You can either go right, left or straight ahead
toward the stunning Angkor Wat which is perched behind a vast, beautifully
manicured lawn. It's a surreal, dream-like structure, with its phallic pillars
and gloomy grey coloration. It embodies the Khmer era beautifully! It was so
striking that we decided to save it for the last day and
turned right.
turned right.
The complex is divided into 4 main sections, Eastern Baray, Western Baray, Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat, with lots of temples scattered in between and on the outskirts. Stay there a month and you still won't see everything. Your first stop was Prasat Kravan! A relatively small 10th century temple consisting of 5 reddish Brick Towers on a common terrace. The temple was dedicated to Vishnu and built in 921 AD. We took some pictures, explored the area briefly and carried on.
Riding along towards Eastern Baray, we unexpectedly came upon a little
lake called Srah Srang. The sunlight, reflecting gently off the still water,
caught our eyes and put us in a hypnotized trance as we drew near. We couldn't
help but stop and sit for a moment, captivated by the lake's peaceful beauty!
There was something truly special there as little Cambodian kids bathed and
played with each other on the banks. Little shouts of childish laughter, the
fresh scent of the murky waters and warm sunlight touching my shoulders, I was
awash with an overwhelming sensation of where in the world I currently sat!
Finished, we decided to grab some lunch at the little market just
across the street from the lake. Not the best food and grossly overpriced, we
ate there anyways as our options were limited.
Banteay Kdei was next and proved to be our introduction to how nature interacts with the man-made beauty of the Angkor structures. It's smaller and less complex than some of the other temples, but it certainly did not seem small to me! Rubble and scattered stone blocks litter the entry way. A massive tree greets you as you enter. Its powerful, yet graceful roots meander along the entry way path, implying who the rightful owner of this temple is! The temple structures are contained within two successive enclosure walls and consist of two concentric galleries from which protrude two massive towers. It's a bit dilapidated due to faulty construction and poor quality limestone, but considering it's still standing after 900 years, I think the Khmer did a pretty good job of putting it together!
Eastern Baray is a gigantic section of Angkor. Trying to see it all in one day is pointless! Needless to say we were only able to get through about half of it. But on that day, I was awestruck by an absolutely compelling temple. As I mentioned earlier, aside from the genius architecture and the metaphysical wonder of Angkor, there seems to be a beautiful symbiosis between the natural and man-made structures. Ta Phrom, for instance, blew me away! The monstrous trees that are hundreds of years old sit directly on top of the temples with their roots cascading down to the ground, spreading like giant tentacles, putting their claim on whatever happens to be within their grasp. I have never in my life seen anything like this before!
Anyhow, physically exhausted from pedaling all day and emotionally
drained from experiencing such magnificent power, we decided to call it a day
and return back to town. What we would uncover later that evening was nothing
short of exhilarating. After a fulfilling dinner, my buddy and I decided to
grab a few drinks at a local bar. It was close to midnight when we got there
and what we found was an electricity in the air that rippled through me with
giant force. I quickly realized that I was not the only one who felt the
intensity of the rich history and succulent flavor of Angkor. All the chatter
was infused with passionate accounts of what everyone had experience that day!
The dance floor was steamy! Both young and old moved to the rhythm of music,
fueled by the intense excitement of finding themselves surrounded by such an
opulent piece of history. Everyone was open and friendly and we remained until
the wee hours of the morning, engaged in conversation, drinking, laughing and
dancing!
I didn't think there could be an equal to what we encountered the first
day but it just kept getting better! We woke up early with no ill effects from
the previous night's debauchery and headed straight for Angkor. With a little
more knowledge about the terrain and energized by the previous day's events
this would be the biggest day for exploration! We saw all the major temples of
Eastern Baray, including Preah Khan, Nak Pean and Ta Keo. All were magnificent
and very impressive, especially Ta Keo. Ta Keo was built in 968 AD, and what
was truly striking is just how large it appears when in fact it is quite small.
This is an example of the Khleang style, using elaborate perspective effects
and absolutely no carving to give it that massive look. Just incredible!
What most people think of when it comes to Angkor is Angkor Wat. If you
haven't noticed, that temple has been mentioned only once up to now! Nature is
what brings this kingdom together and puts it over the top of most other
historical sites on this planet. As we rode our bicycles from temple to temple,
I cannot even begin to tell you how many times we stopped in sheer awe and
amazement! We were in awe not because of an incredible piece of architecture or
a world wonder, but because of simple things like rice fields, streams, the
sky, the sounds of the jungle around us, even the tropical rains that swoop in
with no warning had a strangely exhilarating appeal. At times, it was magical
to ride alongside and meet locals who greet you kindly and are more than happy
to share with you a bit of the wonder that Angkor truly is! To hire a taxi
would be to miss out on so much as the true magic of Angkor is to be uncovered
in a simple, squeaky bicycle ride!
Angkor Thom, meaning the Great City is guarded by Victory gate on the
southern entrance! The bridge leading up to the gate is lined by intricately
carved demon statues. As creepy as that sounds, the rustic beauty is striking!
And being that it's a central passage way into Angkor Thom, you will also see
many locals and tourist pass through on bicycles, tuk-tuks and everything in between!
Many people think of Angkor Thom as a massive temple, when in fact it's
an entire city! In the center of this once sprawling metropolis stands Bayon,
the most famous temple within city limits. It's most recognizable feature is
the main terrace where giant, peaceful stone faces cluster around its' central
peak! The temple is rustic and looks truly ancient. Massive boulders, giant
pillars and intricately carved towers are everywhere. Once you step inside, you
are sent back in time and the outside world ceases to exist. We wandered the
maze of hallways for hours, playing archaeologists and inspecting the beautiful
carvings on the walls. The overall architecture of the place is also a treat!
It is perfectly symmetrical. When inside, certain key spots allow you to look
onto the main terrace providing you with unobstructed views of the faces and
other peculiar points of interest that you otherwise would not have noticed.
Really taking the time to explore this temple will give you a sense of what
king Jayavarman VII valued most.
Kissing the Stone Face in Bayon, Angkor Thom
The city took us the rest of the day to explore, but most of our time
was spent uncovering Bayon. With the last moments of the day, I found myself
sharing a profound moment with a very good friend. While sitting at the top of
the beautifully peaceful Bayon, with the sun descending to the backdrop of the
jungle, a myriad of peculiar jungle sounds permeated the air. The weather was
muggy, but seemed to envelope you as a warm down blanket would, not too hot and
certainly not too cold...perfect. Little Cambodian kids rustling at the base of
the temple with their parents nearby. There seemed to be an energy that
electrified the air! Knowing that tomorrow would be our last day there, we sat
until the sun finally set, sharing our hopes for the future and dreams about
what's to come. It was truly one of the highlights of the entire Southeast
Asian Tour!
Many people say that Angkor Wat must be seen at sunrise so we woke up
bright and early, at 5 AM, hired a taxi and sped off. I'll be honest, seeing
Angkor Wat in the dark is quite different and very spooky! It's already a
gloomy structure, but when lit by the howling moon, that side of it's demeanor
is magnified ten-fold! The phrase "the ghosts come out at night" is
very appropriate to describe the feeling. A millennium worth of wars, strife,
and torment is present there and you can feel it with the force of a
bone-chilling thud! The entrance to the temple is the first causeway and
historic accounts state that it signifies the movement from hell to earth. I'd
say that's appropriate!
Anyhow, by the time the sun began its ascent, the sky was covered in
clouds and the effect of a magnificent sunrise was dulled a bit. The main
terrace quickly began to fill with tourists. Photographers, tour guides,
families and little Cambodian kids selling nick-knacks littered courtyard,
making it difficult to soak up the energy of this famous temple. It was almost
like being in Disneyland. Nevertheless, we took our time exploring this
"temple City," which is what the words "Angkor Wat"
actually means. To describe how amazing this temple is, I feel it's best to
draw on a quote from Antonio da Magdalena of Portugal who visited the temple in
1586 and consequently became one of the first westerners to do so. This is what
he said. It "is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible
to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in
the world. It has towers and decoration and all the refinements which the human
genius can conceive of." The fact that this temple has suffered very
little damage and was nicely restored in the 19th century allows me to attest
to those beautiful words. It truly is an incredible structure and surely worth
a visit wherever in the world you are coming from!